I looked at the waves several times yesterday and it looked; not so good. Late in the afternoon; about an hour before I had to leave for my dry suit diver pool session; the guy upstairs told me that he just got the longest tube he ever had on Wrightsville Beach. Blasphemy! I didn't believe it...I suited up and jogged down to the beach though. Sure enough there were some fun waves coming through. It was better near the pier but I didn't have the time to run that extra mile. I surfed for about 45 minutes and got some good waves and fell on most of them. Not one of my better surf sessions. Sure didn't get the longest tube of my life and I blew such a perfect right that it made me nauseous! However it was still a great session and I got out of the water feeling better than when I went in...Isn't that what it's all about! My buddy Julian was taking photos and got a decent shot of me.
I didn't make it out but I had the view that has been missing from my life recently!
Had I not lived on the beach I would probably have missed this quick surf session that my mind, body and soul desperately needed! Thanks to Kevin for the tip and thanks to Julian for the photo! And most of all thanks for reading!
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Great shot! A surfer always looks good in a green room!
ReplyDeleteA surfer looks better when he is standing up tall in the green room and down right marvelous if he makes it out and does a turn!
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