Solo

 Started my day off with about 45 minutes of surfing alone in some fun waist to chest high surf. As each person paddled out it got worse. Today was my day! While everyone else slept or debated whether or not to go surfing I got the biggest and best of the waves for the day! Sometimes it is just better to be alone! Sharing waves with friends is great, but sometimes it is just better to experience what the ocean has to offer by yourself! I have had some of the most unforgettable waves when there is nobody else around! No it is not the safest thing to do, but I can assure you that more people were injured or killed driving to work this morning than were hurt surfing! I feel more alive when I am sitting alone in the ocean than any where else. Maybe it makes me a loner, maybe it makes me an asshole for wanting to be alone, or maybe it just makes me; me!

                                          Photo courtesy of Tony Butler            wblivesurf.com  

 This photo was taken this morning after one of my longer waves, there was a lot of current, and I decided to walk back up the beach instead of fighting the current again. Not long after other people started showing up...

 I know that I caught the best of this couple hour long swell at Wrightsville. Where were you? No offense but I don't care! I am a surfer, hence I go surfing! Get up off your ass and go surf! (JUST NOT NEAR ME!)

Thanks for Reading!