The Waiting Game...

 Bad weather is upon us; which means only one thing to a surfer; WAVES!! Buoyweather.com is forecasting 13 ft. seas for our area tomorrow.  Usually I don't get too excited by what the so-called experts are forecasting, but I have a good feeling about this one! Could this be the first real test of our newly refurbished beaches and sandbars? I guess we will have to wait and see... in the meantime though lets reminisce about a day this summer that swell, wind, tide, and pretty much everything else joined forces creating the best couple of hours of surf I had seen in years; quite possibly ever!

The town was buzzing; everyone had the feeling that this was going to be the one! Unfortunately I was nursing a shoulder/chest overuse injury. Hurricane Bill visited the previous week, proving to be the usual; long lines of white water closing out the beach strand; which did not help in healing! 

 Tropical Storm Danny was passing the Cape Fear coast as the sun rose. I got the text message the night before; " 7am at the dock if your interested", what kind of dumb question is that; of course I am! Being in the frame of mind of letting my shoulder rest; I actually showed up at the dock thinking that we were going to shoot fish! I was trying to pretend that there were no waves, fortunately nobody else was. I rode the bike back to Harbor Island not knowing what to do; my shoulder hurt pretty bad and I knew that I needed to let it rest or I would miss more than just one swell!

 As I crossed over the banks channel bridge the decision was made; I'll go on the boat and just take pictures. I wouldn't even bring my board, I'll wear my fins and use Alex's water camera; it was a good idea in theory. There was just one problem; my 5'11" was staring at me the way a dog does when you are leaving without them. Next thing I know I'm running to the dock with my board!

 After a stop to put oil in the boat, we arrived at the spot. Those who were there know, as for the rest of you, use your imagination! At first it did not look all that good, it was breaking really far out and I really could not tell how big it was. My first wave was nothing special; I decided to make a game plan, I was not going to take off on any small waves and just sit deep and wait for the best waves, no sense in paddling more than I had to.

 The second wave I caught was a little bit overhead and perfect, really though I mean perfect! I pulled in and came out about 4 seconds later, it was not over yet either! Several turns and another barrel section that was longer than the first followed. The rest of the morning pretty much went the same way...seriously!

 I saw more guys get tubed that morning than I have seen in 8 years of living in Wrightsville Beach. It was the kind of day that if you couldn't get tubed and make it out, you should just quit surfing; it will never be easier than that! I didn't surf for 2 months after that day, my shoulder was in bad shape. I was OK though; enough time in the tube was logged to make the next 2 months bearable.

 What will tomorrow bring? I'm not sure; nobody is. It's all part of the waiting game...
Thanks for Reading!